HISTORY OF THE MAZAPÁN
CONTROVERTED ORIGINS
The legend and reality blend together, which makes it difficult to establish rigorously the moment of its appearance, as well as the circumstances that lead to it.
The products derived from the union of almonds, sugar and honey, as well as with other additions, have been part of the Mediterranean gastronomic culture for many centuries. Its use in Spain was extended due to the influence of oriental cuisine.
BACKGROUND
Due to the incursions of the Almohades, that devastated numerous lands of the south of Castilla, the population took refuge in Toledo. There, the situation was already difficult due to lack of food, which together with the major increases in population, produced a great famine.
The importance of the richness of the Church which brought numerous incomes, not only in money but also in lands and products of these lands, made great reserves of almonds coming from the Cigarrales Toledanos.
They decided to mix this fruit with the amount of sugar they had, obtaining a product of pleasant taste and great alimentary capacity, with which the hunger of the population was reduced.
1212: THE MAZAPAN
It is in the time of Alfonso Vlll when the term of Mazapán appears expressly.
The incursions of the Almohades led to population movements, who left their devastated lands to take refuge in Toledo, causing supply problems.
History and legend are gathered here, it seems that the Mazapán solved this problema.
But there is no doubt that its origin was at that time, having the historical backgrounds of history of the city.
At the end of the 15th century, the Queen Isabel la Católica founded in Toledo the Hospital of Santiago de los Caballeros, for the sick people of the Granada war.
In the primitive creation of this hospital, it is established that those in charge of the pharmacy will be responsible for developing Mazapán for the sick people, probably to mix it with medicines whose taste was not very pleasant.
1577: RUPERTO DE NOLA´S FORMULA
The most important moment for the history of the Mazapán and its connection to Toledo is when in 1.577 comes out of the Toledanas Printers a book written by Ruperto de Nola, cook of Fernando of Naples.
In this book formulas are given for the elaboration of the Mazapán, spreading through other parts of Europe, where they already made a product of the same name, but not of equal composition.
1613: EL GUILD
In 1613 Gaspar de Atienza and other masters of the Toledana Confectionery, write and accept the ordinances to become a Guild.
They establish the address in Martín Gamero Street, (called by then Rua Nova) and develop the ways and forms for the elaboration of the Toledo´s sweets in an ordinance..
It is worth highlighting what was said in clauses 16, 17 and 19:
Clause 16 ítem "Ordenamos que los mazapanes que se ficieren sean joropados e de almendras de Valencia e de azucar blanco e no de otra manera so pena que el que lo contrario ficiere, incurra en la pena de mil maravedies por cada vez y en perdimiento de tales mazapanes"
Clause 17 ítem: "Ordenamos que el enrajado que se ficiere, aunque sea común, lleve almendra pelada e no se haga de otra manera, so pena de perdimiento de ella y del mil maravedies por cada vez"
Clause 19 ítem: «Ordenamos que el alcorzado que se ficiere sea con pasta blanca de azúcar puro en mexcla de otra cosa e de la pasta morena que ha de llevar dentro sea de almendra de Valencia o de azúcar blanco y el que lo ficiere de otra manera incurra en perdimiento de ello y 2.000 maravedies.
These clauses established the criteria to mark the quality of the product, in addition to sanctions for those who would transgress the ordinance and remove prestige to the Guild..
A few years later (1.617), the King Felipe III requests from the confectioners Guild a thread of Mazapán to take to Portugal. Also, in the visits of the monarch and his wife the Queen Margarita of Austria to Toledo, they used to have Mazapán for dessert, of whose quality responded the Guild formed few years earlier.